Planting A Pond: A Beginner's Guide
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Types of pond plants
Pond plants are traditionally divided into four categories – marginal plants, oxygenating plants, floating plants, and deep-water plants. There is some overlap between the categories, but they are still useful.
Marginal plants (pond edge plants)
Marginal plants grow around the edges, or margins, of the pond where the water is shallow. They usually have their soil and their crown (their growing point) under water, and sometimes their lower foliage as well. They are generally placed on shallow planting shelves within the pond. If you don’t have shelves their pots can be stood on things such as house bricks to raise them up to the correct height. True marginal plants are adapted to soil that is fully waterlogged and can tolerate water over their crown all year round. A plant which will tolerate permanently wet soil but will not tolerate permanently flooded soil is considered a marsh plant. There is a huge range of marsh plants available, but a much smaller range of true marginal plants. Many plants sold as marginals are actually marsh plants and will fail in a pond long-term.
Marginal plants usually have recommended planting depths. This refers to the depth of water over the crown, or growing point, of the plant. This is about the same thing as the depth of water over the soil level. So a plant with a recommended planting depth of 0 - 4 inches = from waterlogged soil to 4 inches submerged. Most marginal plants will also grow in drier conditions, such as a flowerbed, as long as the soil never completely dries out. However, you should never grow them in deeper water than the recommended maximum.
Good examples of marginal plants would be water irises, and marsh marigolds. Most people consider marginal plants essential for creating a natural, attractive pond.
They also provide cover and habitats for a wide range of wildlife.
Oxygenating plants
Oxygenating plants are plants that have all their foliage under the water. They may live on deeper shelves, or on the bottom of the pond, or even float suspended in the water – they will grow at any depth where there is light. They are the plants that are sometimes called 'pond weed'; they have fine, delicate foliage. Good examples would be spiked water milfoil, or hornwort. They are generally fast-growing and can take up food through their leaves as well as their roots, which means that they are good at absorbing excess nutrients from the water. This can help 'starve out' algae and blanketweed and keep water from going green.
These plants provide important habitats for aquatic invertebrates and spawning sites for amphibians and fish. They also give a very natural and pleasing look to the pond, with their luxuriant underwater foliage. In addition, because all plants give off oxygen, their submerged vegetation releases oxygen into the water during daylight. In practice though, this doesn't significantly affect the pond, since the oxygen is lost again at night.
Unlike marginal plants, oxygenators can't be grown outside of the pond in a flowerbed or similar place.
Floating plants
Floating plants, as the name suggests, are any plants that float freely in the water and do not have true roots. Some of these plants are also oxygenators (having fine foliage under the water, such as hornwort), while others are more like waterlilies (such as frogbit) and have all their foliage on the water surface. Floating plants are quick to put in to the pond because they don't need potting, and quick and easy to remove if they ever need thinning out. They also provide shade for the pond and help reduce algae by competing for light and nutrients. Like oxygenating plants, floating plants can only be grown in water.
Deep-water plants
Deep-water aquatic plants are plants that grow on deep shelves or on the bottom of the pond, but unlike oxygenators, most of their foliage is on, or above, the water surface. This category would include waterlilies (although for convenience, waterlilies are usually listed separately in plant catalogues). Apart from waterlilies, good examples would be flowering rush or floating four-leaf clover. Aside from their attractive appearance, these plants can also provide shade for the pond (which can help with green water) and cover for fish and pond wildlife. Because they start fairly deep under the water and then emerge up into the air, they are also the best plants for dragonfly and damselfly larvae to crawl up. Like oxygenating plants and floating plants, deep-water aquatics can only be grown in water.
Where should I site my pond?
Most pond plants prefer full sun to partial shade. Few will grow well in deeper shade, and those that do often won't flower. Sunny sites also attract more bees and dragonflies and damselflies, so light levels are worth considering when deciding where to place your pond.
The pond will look most natural if placed at the lowest point of your garden or where water would naturally collect. Even if they can't quite explain why, most people know a pond placed somewhere high looks wrong.
It’s also worth thinking about what you want your pond to be used for. If you want to sit by it with a cup of tea, is it close enough to the house? Make sure you can easily reach it to thin plants or remove debris when needed. If wildlife is your priority, consider whether animals might be disturbed and whether there is enough surrounding cover for them to approach unseen.
Finally, if your pond is near trees or bushes, leaves will fall in. While this isn't usually harmful, it can smother very small plants, look messy, and require extra maintenance.
When should I plant my pond?
People often contact us to ask whether it is too early or too late to plant up their pond. In fact, pond plants can be planted at any time of year.
The optimum time for most potted pond plants is late winter to early spring. This means they go into their new pots with fresh soil and fertiliser just before they start to grow, so they get the greatest benefit from it. That said, this timing is preferable rather than essential, and it also depends on the plant. For example, very early-flowering plants may be better potted and established the previous autumn, so they are not disturbed while flower buds are forming.
If you are planting a natural pond with a soil bottom rather than using pots, then late summer to early autumn can be ideal. At this time of year water levels are usually lower, giving easier access. In addition, the soil and water are warmer, so plants establish more quickly and planting is more pleasant.
Floating plants have special considerations. They are usually not available in winter, as they retreat to small buds or shoots at the bottom of the pond. We don't sell them at this time because they look disappointing at this stage. If you want these plants, they are generally only available between April and September.
All of our plants here are used to living outside in the British climate. They can be put into your pond at any time of the year. However, like most nurseries, our stock is mostly available in spring and early summer. This is partly because demand is highest then, and partly because we need a quiet period to propagate new stock, since we grow all our plants from scratch ourselves.
How many plants do I need, and what types?
There is no single 'right' way to plant your pond. Like planting a flowerbed, it depends on your own preferences. Here are a few guidelines to help achieve the outcome you want:
Overall coverage: For a natural, conventional look, aim for roughly one-third to two-thirds of the water surface to be covered by oxygenating plants and plants with floating leaves such as waterlilies, leaving the rest open. Similarly, aim to plant marginal plants around one-third to two-thirds of the pond edge, leaving some areas clear. This balance also suits fish, which do not thrive in either completely bare or completely covered ponds.
Planting around the edge: Around the pond margins, aim for a mix of taller and shorter marginal plants. Avoid spacing plants evenly around the edge, as this looks unnatural - planting in loose clumps gives a much more natural effect. For larger ponds, you can buy several of the same plant and place together in one larger pot.
Working out how many plants to buy: Once you have chosen the plants you like, think about how many feet of pond edge or water surface you want to cover. On each plant's page on our website, we suggest an approximate planting density per foot
Planting densities should be treated as a guide rather than a rule. Growth rates vary depending on sunlight, water depth, soil or fertiliser used, location within the UK, plant variety, and - most importantly - pot size. Pond plant growth is often more variable than that of garden plants. For many people, budget will be the main factor limiting how many plants they buy initially. Don’t forget to allow for pots and soil in your budget if these are needed. There is advice on choosing pots and soil on our page here.
Sun and shade: Most pond plants prefer full sun to partial shade. In deeper shade they may survive but are unlikely to flower well. If you have a shaded area, consider foliage plants such as grasses or ferns, for example corkscrew rush, or water horsetail, which tolerate shade and in fact often look better in sheltered conditions. Ivy-leaved duckweed is a floating plant which does extremely well even in deep shade, and in this situation will look fresher and cleaner than it does in sun. Creeping plants such as marsh pennywort, water speedwell, and water mint, usually produce good foliage in shade even if flowering is reduced. Oxygenating plants will also grow in shade, although more slowly. If your shade is due to deciduous trees and is absent in the spring, marsh marigolds are a good choice as they flower before the canopy closes.
Plants to avoid in shady ponds include waterlilies (consider water hawthorns instead), water irises (unless flowering is not important), and cottongrasses.
Colour, structure, and seasonality: For visual interest, choose plants with different flower colours and flowering times. For example, marsh marigolds for yellow flowers in spring, loosestrife for pink flowers in early summer, pickerel plants for blue flowers in late summer etc. Foliage is just as important as flowers, so consider including one or two evergreen plants, such as water horsetail, to provide winter interest. For a balanced look, choose both tall slender plants and low bushy plants. Plant heights, flower colour and flowering times are all given on this website on each plant's page.
If you want to disguise the pond edge, choose plants with creeping or scrambling habits such as water speedwell, marsh pennywort, water mint, or bog pimpernel. These grow in both wet soil and shallow water and can spread out over deeper water, softening hard edges. They also work well as underplanting around taller plants, helping to hide pots, although they should be thinned if they begin to overwhelm the taller plant.
Algae and fish cover: The more oxygenating plants and floating-leaved plants you have, the less algae you are likely to see. These plants also provide the best cover for fish.
Planting for wildlife: If wildlife is a priority, the single most important thing is to choose plants from each category - submerged plants, floating-leaved plants, and marginal plants - to create a range of habitats. To encourage dragonflies and damselflies, include marginal plants with tall stems that larvae can climb when emerging. For bees and butterflies, choose pollinator-friendly plants such as loosestrife or water forget-me-not. British native plants are generally the most useful for local wildlife, but this is not a hard rule. Many non-native varieties also provide excellent cover, habitat, and flowers for wildlife.
For frogs, toads, small mammals, and birds, allow some marginal and marsh planting to blend naturally into the surrounding garden. This provides cover and allows animals to approach and leave the pond without crossing open ground.
Finally, remember that it is entirely normal for a new pond to go green at first. This is part of the natural settling-in process and does not mean you have done anything wrong. We explain this in more detail on our page about algae and blanketweed here
Once planted, a pond needs only simple routine care, much like mowing a lawn or tending a flowerbed. You can find more information on seasonal pond care on our page here.